Shielding the skin by blocking ultraviolet (UV) rays has long been taken for granted as the role of sunscreen. But what if, beyond blocking, UV rays could be absorbed and converted into light that benefits the skin?
The hyaluronic acid quantum dot (HA QD), developed by cosmetics ODM (research, development and manufacturing) company COSMAX, is a new sun care material born from this very idea. It brings to cosmetics the property of quantum dots, which absorb light and then emit it at a different wavelength. Once commercialized, it is expected to lead to sun care products that target UV protection and skin care at the same time.
COSMAX announced on the 22nd that it had co-developed HA QD, a hyaluronic acid–based quantum dot, with Professor Lee Young-chul’s research team at Gachon University and completed patent applications in Korea and overseas.
■ A ‘natural quantum dot’ found in hyaluronic acid, a familiar moisturizing ingredient
Quantum dots are ultrafine particles only a few nanometers (nm) in size, tens of thousands of times thinner than a human hair. They absorb light and re-emit it at a specific wavelength, or color. While researching new sun care materials, COSMAX turned its attention to photofunctional materials based on natural polymers. The research was based on the idea that hyaluronic acid could be a promising candidate for a natural material capable of absorbing and emitting light. Well known as a moisturizing ingredient, hyaluronic acid is naturally present in the skin and has long been used as a cosmetic raw material.
Image: (Photo: COSMAX)
Working with Professor Lee’s research team, COSMAX succeeded in achieving the light-conversion function of quantum dots using hyaluronic acid, without heavy metals. This opens the possibility of extending quantum dots, previously used mainly in electronic materials such as displays, to cosmetic materials.
■ Not just absorbing UV but emitting it as light that benefits the skin
What sets HA QD apart is its ability to absorb UV rays and re-emit the absorbed energy as light at different wavelengths. Conventional UV absorbers dissipate most of the energy they absorb as heat. HA QD, by contrast, converts part of that energy into light at wavelengths of 400 nm and above and returns it to the skin. Light in this range is known to be involved in antibacterial activity and in promoting collagen synthesis by fibroblasts.
■ Increased collagen expression in a 3D skin model; application in new products planned for next year
COSMAX’s in-house efficacy evaluation also produced results supporting its potential to improve the skin. When HA QD was applied to a three-dimensional (3D) skin model that was then exposed to UV rays, increased collagen expression and changes in the epidermal layer were observed. The results indicate that it could be used in sun care products targeting skin elasticity and barrier improvement. COSMAX plans to verify its efficacy through a human application test within the year and apply HA QD to new products to be launched next year.
■ Particles of about 25 nm: less white cast and stable formulations
HA QD also offers potential advantages in texture and formulation stability. With a particle size of only about 25 nm, it can reduce the white cast that appears when sunscreen is applied to the skin. In COSMAX’s formulation tests, no clumping occurred during use. According to the company, an accelerated evaluation of the formulation under high- and low-temperature conditions for three months also showed no separation, sedimentation or aggregation.
■ Cell viability above 99%; PCT international application targets overseas markets
Its hyaluronic acid-based composition may also offer advantages in terms of safety. In cytotoxicity tests on human keratinocytes and fibroblasts, cell viability remained above 99% at concentrations up to 400 μg/mL. COSMAX plans to conduct further toxicity tests, including skin irritation.
COSMAX has filed patents covering not only the material itself but also its manufacturing method and cosmetic applications, and has completed an international application under the Patent Cooperation Treaty (PCT). On this basis, it is preparing to enter major markets including the U.S., Europe and China.
“Quantum dots, once considered unrelated to cosmetics, have found a new application in sun care through an innovative approach,” said Yoon Seok-kyun, Head of the Lab at COSMAX BTI R&I. “We will open an era that goes beyond simply blocking or absorbing UV rays to converting them into light that benefits the skin.”
■FAQ
Q1. What is the hyaluronic acid quantum dot (HA QD)?
A1. HA QD is a new sun care material co-developed by COSMAX and Professor Lee Young-chul’s research team at Gachon University. It is a natural quantum dot based on hyaluronic acid, a moisturizing ingredient, that absorbs light and re-emits it at a different wavelength without heavy metals.
Q2. How does HA QD differ from conventional UV absorbers?
A2. Conventional UV absorbers dissipate most of the absorbed energy as heat. HA QD converts part of that energy into light at 400 nm and above and returns it to the skin. Light in this range is known to be involved in antibacterial activity and in promoting collagen synthesis by fibroblasts.
Q3. What did efficacy and safety tests of HA QD show?
A3. In a 3D skin model exposed to UV after HA QD treatment, collagen expression increased and changes in the epidermal layer were observed. In cytotoxicity tests on human keratinocytes and fibroblasts, cell viability stayed above 99% at up to 400 μg/mL. Further toxicity tests, including skin irritation, are planned.
Q4. When will products containing HA QD be available?
A4. COSMAX plans to verify efficacy through a human application test within the year and apply HA QD to new products launching next year. It has completed Korean and overseas patent applications, including a PCT international application, and is preparing to enter the U.S., Europe and China.
